Christmas in Madrid: Tips to Have a Magical Madrid Holiday
Christmas in Madrid is a magical time. The whole city center is decked out with lights, markets burst with special foods and the streets buzz with holiday shoppers. Visiting Madrid during the holidays is a fantastic idea! But be sure to plan ahead; it is a busy time to be in the city.
From where to get your Christmas feast to where to spot the best Christmas lights, here is everything you need to know to have a marvelous Christmas in Madrid!
How we Celebrate Christmas in Madrid
Here in Spain, Christmas is a marathon, not a sprint. The season kicks off the first weekend of December with a double-hitter of public holidays -- Constitution Day on the 6th and Immaculate Conception Day on the 8th. People from across Spain flock to Madrid to do their Christmas shopping over this long weekend, aka one of the busiest shopping weekends of the year!
But the real celebrations (read: epic family meals) begin on December 24th with an enormous Christmas Eve dinner. Most shops and restaurants will close at midday on Christmas Eve so workers can have this important meal with their families.
Christmas Day is traditionally NOT the day that most families open presents. Instead it is a day of eating and celebrating with family. The Christmas Day lunch is an hours-long affair that can stretch long past sunset! Almost all shops and restaurants in Madrid will be closed on Christmas Day.
Both New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day are family-centered feasts as well. Can you tell that eating is a centerpiece of Spanish celebrations? While many restaurants are closed for dinner on New Years Eve, the clubs and discotecas will open around 2 am to welcome in revelers after they’ve eaten their 12 grapes at midnight (more on that below) with their family!
For kids, the biggest day of the holiday season is January 6th, Three Kings Day. This is when they are finally able to open their gifts! There is also a huge parade through Madrid on January 5th, the eve of Three Kings Day, to welcome the kings to the city.
Things to See and Do in Madrid at Christmastime
Explore a Madrid Christmas Market
The largest Christmas market in Madrid is in the beautiful Plaza Mayor. The two main types of goods sold at this market are decorations for the traditional nativity scene and funny hats. It is tradition in Madrid to wear a hilarious hat while doing your Christmas shopping!
For artisanal goods, head to the Paseo de Recoletos. This Christmas market stretches the entire length of the boulevard and features everything from olive-wood cutting boards to handmade jewelry. To taste traditional Christmas sweets from around the country, check out the Christmas market in Plaza Isabel II, just in front of the Opera House.
See the Christmas Lights
Madrid takes Christmas lights very seriously. Twinkling lights of every color and shape hang over most streets in the city center. The official lighting ceremony is always the day after Thanksgiving (even though that all-American holiday isn’t celebrated here), aka the 4th Friday in November.
Some of our favorite streets are Calle Serrano, the Plaza de Canalejas (next to the new Four Seasons hotel) and the Paseo del Prado. You can also hop on the Naviluz, an open-topped bus that plays Christmas carols and drives by all the best light installations in the city!
Go Ice Skating
If you see a giant white tent in a plaza in Madrid around Christmastime, odds are there is an ice skating rink inside. It isn’t quite cold enough for the rinks to be in the open air, but that doesn’t stop us from the classic winter tradition of ice skating! Some of the biggest and best rinks are at the Matadero and inside the gorgeous glass-domed events room at the Palacio de Cibeles.
Taste Your Way through a Local Food Market
The fresh food markets in Madrid live for the holidays. With no less than 5 huge family meals on the calendar, this time of year is when all the best seafood, meats, cured hams, fruits and vegetables are piled highest. Wander through a traditional market to gander at all the goodies or join us on our De Mercados: A Malasaña Neighborhood Market & Tapas Tour to meet the vendors and taste their specialties!
Visit a Sprawling Nativity Scene
Nativity Scenes are enormous works of art in Spain. At home, the family’s nativity scene depicting the three kings bringing gifts to the newborn Jesus in the manger can take up an entire corner of the living room. The public Belenes, as they are called in Spanish, are downright massive. Some of the most impressive scenes can be found in the Plaza de la Villa and in the History of Madrid Museum on Calle Fuencarral, 78.
Run the San Silvestre on New Year’s Eve
A sportier way to see the Christmas lights is to run Madrid’s annual 10K race on New Year’s Eve. Called the San Silvestre, the course follows some of the best-lit and most festive streets in the city including Calle Serrano, around the Puerta de Alcalá and around the Ronda de Atocha. Many people dress up in Christmas-themed attire for the fun run!
Spanish Christmas Foods
A heaping plate of different types of Spanish turrón, aka almond nougat! A tray like this makes an appearance at almost every family Christmas feast in Spain.
Turrón
Visit any Spanish home during the Christmas season and you’re sure to find a plate of turrón. Traditionally, turrón is almond nougat sweetened with honey and ranges from teeth crackingly hard to dense and fudgy. The concept of turrón has expanded to include a whole range of sweet, brick-shaped treats from chocolate truffle to traditional yema quemada (caramelized egg yolk and almond delight).
Try turrón from:
Casa Mira has been serving Christmas treats to Madrileños since 1842. Visit their traditional shop near the Puerta del Sol on Carrera de S. Jerónimo, 30
Turrons Vicens has taken traditional candy making from a small shop in Cataluña to the world. Every year they partner with innovative chefs like Albert Adria to put a modern spin on the Christmas treat. With flavors like strawberries and cream and tiramisu or gold leaf covered almond turrón, there’s something for everyone. Their flagship store in Madrid is on Calle Mayor, 41
Churros con Chocolate
The most festive way to start a day of Christmas revelry is with freshly-made churros and a steaming mug of thick hot chocolate. Do as Spanish families do and enjoy churros and chocolate for a decadent breakfast or a late afternoon snack (merienda). The best place for churros is a churrería where the churros are made fresh in-house. For a special treat, try porras, a thick, fluffy, Madrid-style churro.
Try churros and chocolate from:
Churrería Madrid 1883: The current owners are third and fourth generation churros makers at the oldest churrería in the Malasaña neighborhood. Peek into the kitchen to see how they make their fresh churros and porras on our morning De Mercados: A Malasaña Neighborhood Market & Tapas Tour! Calle del Espíritu Santo, 8
San Ginés: The classic choice for churros in Madrid is open 24 hours a day and has been serving churros and chocolate to Madrid party go-ers after a night out, families out for a stroll and retirees having an afternoon pick-me-up since 1894. Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5
Freshly fried churros dipped in thick hot chocolate are a must during Christmas in Madrid!
Caldo
After a chilly morning of Christmas shopping or sightseeing, caldo is just the thing to warm you up. Caldo or consomé are rich broths, simmered for hours with meat, bones and veggies. The result is the perfect winter treat: warm, comforting and flavorful.
Try caldo from:
Lhardy: A visit to Lhardy is a visit to the past. For a full meal, head upstairs to the lavish dining room to feel like 19th century royalty. For a quick taste of elegant, old-world charm, stop by the delicatessen to sample Lhardy’s famous consomé served from a silver decanter. The perfect accompaniment is one (or three) of their equally famous hojaldres, savory puff pastries. Carrera de S. Jerónimo, 8
Margit enjoying one of her favorite wintery Spanish food, caldo, at Lhardy, one of the best restaurants in Madrid to try this classic soup.
Seafood
From the near obligatory plate of langostinos (boiled or grilled shell-on prawns) to elaborate crab and lobster preparations, seafood is the star of the Spanish Christmas table. All manner of fish and shellfish harvested from the coldest waters are served on Nochebuena (Christmas Eve) and Nochevieja (New Year’s Eve). Fun fact: Even though the city is nowhere near a port, the second largest seafood market in the world is in Madrid.
Try Spanish seafood from:
Marisquería El Cantábrico: To try the best quality seafood this time of year, head to the experts. El Cantábrico is half tapas bar half seafood monger with a huge counter of the freshest shellfish in town lining one wall. It is usually standing room only! This is the best place in town to try the good stuff like percebes (gooseneck barnacles) and camarones (bright red shirmp). Calle de Padilla, 39
Pescadería Oñate: Hidden inside Mercado de la Paz, this pescadería (fish shop) has a small kitchen where you can choose fish and seafood and then have it grilled or fried to order. This is a great way to try amazing seafood in an informal setting. Calle de Ayala, 28
Roscón de Reyes
Traditionally in Spain, gifts are exchanged on January 6th to celebrate Día de los Reyes Magos (Three Kings Day or Epiphany). Amid wrapping paper and ribbons, families enjoy their Roscón, a cake-like sweet bread ring studded with candied fruit and dusted with sugar and slivered almonds. The Roscón can be filled with whipped cream or chocolate cream or eaten on its own.
Each Roscón has some surprises baked in. Watch out for the dried fava bean and a little figurine. If your slice has the bean, you have to pay for next year’s Roscón. If you get the figurine, it’s all good luck for the coming year!
Try Roscón from:
Horno de San Onfore: On a hidden side street off the Calle Fuencarral shopping area, you’ll find this traditional pastry shop and bakery. Expect lines of shoppers out the door to get their Roscón. Calle de San Onofre, 3
Rosconería Bargueño: Typically Roscón is only available around Christmas time. This bakery has taken Roscón to the next level with innovative flavors, designs and texture. And you get one all year long! Calle de José Abascal, 29
Pandomé: Head to Mercado Tirso de Molina to meet Dome and try a truly sensational Roscón. Dome is originally from Italy but fell in love with Roscón in Spain and now makes one of the best in the city. Calle de Doña de Urraca, 15
Try many of these iconic Christmas foods on our De Mercados: A Neighborhood Market & Tapas Experience! You’ll meet José the Iberian ham slicer, Freddy the expert churro frier and Carlos, the market chef who sources all of his ingredients from within the market! This experience is available every day the market is open (not on public holidays or Sundays).
Restaurants in Madrid Open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day
Most of the city’s bars and restaurants will close from about 3:00 pm on Christmas Eve and will stay closed through Christmas Day. There are a few exceptions to that rule! Here are a few spots that have said they will be open in the evening on Christmas Eve and/or on Christmas Day 2023:
Churrería 1883 - Churros and hot chocolate are an absolute must this time of year! Most churro makers will stay open on the holidays since churros are such an important part of Madrid’s Christmas celebrations. Churrería 1883 is a family-run café where you can see them fry your churros and porras fresh to order! Calle Espíritu Santo, 8. Open Dec. 24 and 25 from 6:30 am to 1:00 pm.
Orio Fuencarral - This large Basque tavern is a tribute to the cuisine of the Basque Country in northern Spain. Downstairs is a classic pintxos bar with small bites lining the bar just as they would in the northern Basque town of San Sebastian. Upstairs is a more formal dining room where they are serving special Christmas menus! Calle de Fuencarral, 49. Kitchen open Dec. 24 and 25 from 1-4 pm and 7-11 pm.
Casa Felisa - Many of Madrid’s 4- and 5-star hotels feature fantastic restaurants that stay open on the holidays. One of our favorite hotels, Hotel Urso, in the Malasaña neighborhood has just opened their new restaurant, Casa Felisa, which is serving a special Christmas menu this year. Calle de la Beneficencia, 15.
Mercado de la Reina - For classic dishes and tapas right on Gran Via, Mercado de la Reina is a fantastic option. They have two locations right next to each other because one giant tapas bar just wasn’t enough! Both locations will be open on Christmas Eva and Christmas Day this year. Calle Gran Via 10 and 12.
Amicis - This restaurant, found right beside Mercado San Miguel, serves Spanish fusions dishes like bravas with chipotle sauce. They are offering special Christmas Eve and Christmas Day menus as well as a New Year’s Eve dinner party! Plaza Conde de Miranda, 4.
Thanks to Gill Ryan for helping us research this year’s Christmas restaurant openings! Gill Ryan is an Irish expat who has lived in Madrid for over 13 years. She helps run Eat Out Madrid and enjoys helping others find the best places to eat and drink. Gill organizes monthly Eat Out Together events around the city that attract visitors and locals. Eat Out Madrid is an English community of over 10,000 food lovers on the search for the best places to eat and drink in the capital.