Must-Visit Madrid Markets
Markets make Madrid come alive. They are one of the true social and gastronomic centers of the city. City markets are also one of my favorite places to shop, have a drink and spend a Saturday morning.
Gabriel has been selling olives in Mercado de los Mostenses for over 30 years! Come meet him and other passionate local vendors on the Morning Neighborhood and Market Tour!
I first came to Madrid on vacation in 2007 after quitting my job in Washington DC and not quite knowing what was next. My best friend from college was living in Madrid and I decided that some Spain time was just what I needed to set me straight. I had a lot of time on my hands, it was amazing! I filled my days getting lost (the pre-Google maps world was crazy!) going to museums, and visiting every market I could find, and cooking. Lots and lots of cooking.
There were vegetables I had never seen before. Fish I couldn’t identify. Fruit that I wasn’t quite sure if it was fruit at all. But one of the most incredible parts of the markets were all the vendors. After flexing my high school and college Spanish (not nearly as good as in my Spain-imagination) I was able to get tons of tips for how to prepare everything from artichokes to mackerel. One day, a vegetable seller grabbed a small knife and a plastic bag and showed me how to remove the hard outer pieces of the artichoke and leave just the tender inside. He said that he wanted to make sure young people knew how to prepare all the foods their grandparents had grown up with. I promised I would practice my artichoke technique!
The market gave me a routine. I would go in the morning and have coffee with the old ladies doing their shopping, then get a little Spanish vocabulary test as I asked for different vegetables and fruit to bring home and cook.
A lot has changed since 2007, for me and for Madrid. The city’s wonderful, municipal-run food markets have been through a lot. Many nearly lost all their vendors during Spain’s financial crisis as shoppers looked for bargains at big supermarkets. Stands that had been in families for decades have been given up on by younger generations looking for jobs that don’t require the punishing time table and physical labor.
Markets in Spain have always been the center of commerce and socializing and after a complicated moment, they are back! One of the most energizing forces has been the arrival of small bars and restaurants joining the ranks of fish-mongers, butchers and fruit stands and other traditional market staples. The results are vibrant community spaces where young and old gather for drinks, food and of course, conversation.
No trip to Madrid is complete without a visit to a neighborhood market. They are the perfect place to grab supplies for a picnic in Madrid’s Retiro park or river-walk park (Madrid Rio) or to have an informal lunch moving from stand to stand. Most Madrid travel sites recommend Mercado San Miguel. Mercado San Miguel is a true food-lovers’ paradise, a wrought-iron and brick tapas paradise. It’s a great place for a glass of something bubbly and an oyster or two (or three). But, if you’re looking for something off-the-beaten-path, check out the ideas below.
Here are a few of my favorite neighborhood markets in Madrid:
Mercado Vallehermoso
Tucked away on a leafy street in the Chamberí neighborhood, this is the perfect market to spend a Saturday or Sunday morning grazing at the many little bars serving market-fresh dishes. With a distinctly local vibe, be like a true Madrileño/Madrileña (a person from Madrid) and grab a cheese plate and glass of wine from any of the great little bars and look for a tall table somewhere along the edge of the market floor. There’s everything from craft to beer to an Argentine grill so there’s something for everyone.
Mercado de la Paz
What’s the best way to spend a sunny day in Madrid? Start with a coffee and slice of the best Spanish omelet in Madrid at the Casa Dani restaurant in Mercado de la Paz, then wander through the market choosing the perfect picnic fixings (think jamón ibérico, a chunk of queso, fruit, olives and some pastries for dessert, see ordering notes below). Head over to the Retiro Park (about a 10-minute walk from the market) and set up a glorious picnic near the Palacio de Cristal (massive antique greenhouse turned into a lovely art space).
Thinly sliced Iberian ham and Spanish chorizo are the perfect picnic treats!
Ordering notes for the perfect picnic for 2:
If you’re not familiar with the metric system, here’s a cheat sheet:
At the charcutería (charcuterie stand)
-100 grams is the perfect cured meat serving for 2, it’s also normally the minimum amount they’ll sell. And don’t worry jamón (Spanish cured ham) and sausage slices are made to be shelf stable. The salting process means they never go bad so don’t worry about carrying ham in your bag on a sunny day. Try 100 grams of a good jamón ibérico de bellota, the acorn-fed Iberian ham. This is where you want to splurge on the good stuff. And maybe 100 grams of thinly sliced salchichón or Spanish salami-style sausage
-A nice little chunk of Idizabal cheese (smoked sheep’s milk cheese from the Basque country). Normally if you ask nicely they will slice it for you so you don’t need a knife (In Spanish “en lonchas por favor” “in slices, please”)
- 100 grams of Campo Real olives (little green gems)
-Then look for some yummy bread and something sweet if you’re into that. I am!
Mercado Tirso de Molina
For a real barrio neighborhood experience, head across the Puente de Segovia just below the La Latina area and cross Madrid’s river. On Saturdays and Sundays enjoy a foodie scene complete with real Valencian paella, tapas galore, craft beers, fresh bread, innovative tapas and great regional Spanish cuisine. Say “hola” to my friend Dome the baker and get a slice of his fresh from the oven pizza, then wander through the many stalls sampling the daily specials!
We’re just chatting as Alejandra and her team prepare some of Madrid’s iconic Bocadillo de Calamares (fried calamari rings tucked into a crunch baguette) at a fish stand in Mercado de los Mostenses.